New Caledonia

                                    There's a passage here somewhere!




We left Fiji by passing through the Malolo passage and back out into the big rollers of the pacific. We had forgotten how life was outside of the comfortable waters inside the reefs.

We were on our way to Isle des Pins an island about 30 miles south of New Caledonia. Why? Because Nicole had heard good things about it and as we were now leaving New Caledonia to starboard, as this was the more direct route to Brisbane, we decided to stop there on our way. It was over 600 miles away so we had a few days at sea in front of us.

We were now heading south west with the prospect of sailing out of the tropics soon. The wind was south easterly at around 12-20 knots and we were making good boat speed if not a little uncomfortable fairly close-hauled into the swell. Again it was quite a short sharp swell but we were maintaining a good speed of 7-8 knots.

The trip down was fairly fast and we were arriving at the Isle des Pins at daybreak on Monday, that was less than four days later.

                                             Land Ahoy!

 The weather had got much colder as we progressed and it was time for socks and shoes, long trousers and a fleece jacket.

 It also started raining so it was waterproofs as well.

 Dean was on watch as we saw the island for the first time. There was a strong tide running and we found big overfalls and breaking waves off the south coast of the island. We rounded the south coast in the mist and rain and proceeded up towards Kuto beach where we had been recommended to go.

                                           Kuto Beach

Our arrival was not the most thrilling we have had, although it is always nice to make a landfall. Which reminds me of the pilots saying:   That it is better to be down here wishing you were up there, than being up there wishing you were down here.!!

So, it was cold and drizzling and the place looked damp but nice. The beach looked magnificent and once anchored we started to appreciate both the flat water and one of Dean’s famous breakfasts. Life was getting better by the minute.

Then, a great big P&O liner anchored offshore and deposited about a thousand tourists on the beach!!!....

We went ashore too as we wanted to have a look around as we had come all this way. Yes it was beautiful and yes the tourists did go back on their boat after about three hours ashore.
Our walk took us to some lovely spots and it is surely a nice spot for a holiday.

                                          Kotu bay with the sun out

                                                               Our dinghy ashore

                                                                    Pins  (pines)

We had to go to Noumea next which is the capital of New Caledonia. We had to go to officially enter and leave the country but more important we needed fuel for the last long leg to Brisbane. We decided to leave the next morning at dawn.

That same evening we invited a couple called Heather and Dennis from 'Tigger', a nearby catamaran, for dinner on board Mercury Rising. 


I had met them earlier when I went over to ask if they had any information on getting to Brisbane. They were most helpful, and when they came for dinner they brought printouts of the charts to get up the river Brisbane. This was really nice, and very useful. They were both from the UK but have spent many years in this neck of the woods and we all enjoyed each others company for a few hours. We continue to exchange e-mails and I wish them many pleasant days of sailing and pottering around the islands.


The next morning we set off for Noumea. It was not the best morning I have ever seen.

But we had a fair wind and we needed to cover 80 miles before nightfall so all was looking good from that point of view. We were doing 7-8 knots and we knew we would pick up a northerly tidal stream as we approached New Caledonia that would increase our speed even further.

Our first view of New Caledonia was through the mist and cloud. It takes it's name from Scotland and we could see why. However we continued on our way and were soon escorted by a pod of humpbacked whales. These magnificent animals come up from the Southern Ocean to New Caledonia, Fiji and Tonga to both mate and to give birth to their young. They are amongst the most friendly whales to man and this has often led to their downfall.

One of these beautiful creatures got within about 5 meters of the boat and this was a little too close for comfort.


We continued on or way up the coast to Noumea and the scenery became more and more like the Scotish highlands. Give or take a palm tree or two !!

The rest of the trip to Noumea went very well and we were tucked in the Marina by four fifteen and cleared customs and immigration by six.


Our three days in Noumea were taken up with several visits to the Pub and Restaurant 'Le fin du monde' on the quay at Noumea. It was not that we really wanted a drink but there was free wifi there and the place was full of errant yachtsmen (and yachtswomen).


Otherwise we went off to a restaurant with the crew of another boat we met on the quay. Nicole met up with some old friends.
We shopped for the crossing.
And I spent what seemed like two days walking all over town arranging clearance for the weekend: customs, immigration and duty free fuel for the trip.


Saturday morning we decided that there was no point waiting any more and with a pretty poor weather forecast we set out into the ocean once more.


Australia here we come!